It’s just before 11 a.m. on Central Street, and the smell of spices is already seeping out of the door of Toyin African Restaurant. Inside, Toyin Bankole, a chef, moves between pots in the kitchen and the fridge, preparing fufu, egusi soup, and jollof rice before the day’s first customers arrive. The green-and-white gingham tablecloths are set, and photos of dishes are on display in the window, catching the late morning sunlight. The space is comfortable, inviting to Providence residents and visitors – exactly how Bankole and her husband imagined it.
Toyin was opened to create a space that feels like home for not just fellow West Africans, but for the entire community to connect.
“When they are in here, I want them to feel at home, like they’re in Africa,” Bankole said, as she prepped the food for that day.
A short walk away, off Friendship Street, is Deddeh’s. Like Toyin, Deddeh’s is a small West African restaurant opened with a passion for building community.
And then, downtown, there’s Suya Joint – the second location of Cecilia Lizotte’s restaurant, which first opened in Boston as an inspiration of her grandmother’s cooking in the Nigerian village she grew up in.
Together, Toyin African Restaurant, Deddeh’s Kitchen, and Suya Joint represent West African presence in Providence’s dining scene. More than restaurants, these spaces double as community hubs – places where people from an array of West African countries gather to feel a sense of home, newcomers from different backgrounds discover bold flavors, and communities gather around shared tables of jollof rice, fufu, and beef suya. These establishments tell a vibrant story about the owners and employees who see their food as both cultural expression and community connection.
But what starts it is the flavors on the plate. At Toyin, customers can come in to enjoy fufu, egusi soup, and jollof rice – dishes that Bankole prepares every morning during the restaurant’s opening hours with the same process she learned in Nigeria, where she’s from.
Bankole says that their clientele at Toyin is very diverse. She loves welcoming people of all different backgrounds into the restaurant.
“I tell them, ‘feel free to wash your hands, eat with your hands. That is how we do it in Africa,’” Bankole commented. “And then one day, when they go to my country [Nigeria], they will be free to eat anywhere, because they’ll know.”
She knows that newcomers will love the food and that they’ll come back. That’s how Toyin has built a list of regulars that come in. And Bankole knows exactly what the regulars will order before they even sit down.
At Deddeh’s Kitchen, family employee Lev suggests enjoying their version of West African classics like Spinach and jollof rice, with Liberian influence. Lev feels like Deddeh’s has become a place of community for those in the area.
“We cook good food, we have good customer service, and we love people,” Lev said. “We’ve been around for 8 years.”
Of course, like many small businesses, Deddeh’s has faced economic struggle. But Lev hopes for the family business to grow into the future.
At Suya Joint, their diverse clientele comes in to enjoy everything from beans and plantains to Palm Butter / Banga to an upside down pineapple cake. Suya Joint is “giving authenticity in a different way,” according to the staff, by educating visitors and preaching what the food is really about.
“Everyone is dedicated to making sure we have a different idea here than other African restaurants,” a Suya staff member said. “It’s not just serving food, it’s about understanding what you’re eating.”
Suya Joint tailors their menu so that people of all different backgrounds can feel involved. For example, a traditional Nigerian dish may use stockfish or crayfish, but due to the possibility of allergies, Suya Joint uses a different kind of fish but ensures the dish features the exact same flavors, according to staff.
Suya Joint has built a trusted list of regulars since its opening in Providence just about 10 months ago. To staff, regulars become family, just as coworkers regard each other as family. At Suya, employees have a close relationship with Cecilia Lizotte, their boss, which was unexpected for those who are used to an African work culture. According to a staff member, relationships between bosses and staff in Africa are far less close.
Together, these restaurants weave a shared narrative about West African culture and cuisine in Providence. Bankole emphasizes her desire to fit in the community in Providence, explaining that the initial idea of starting the restaurant was to feel comfortable in the community. And with each shared story, vibrant flavor, and new friend, the West African food scene is certainly bringing connection to the city.
“I want them [members of the community] to borrow out of my culture as I am borrowing out of theirs,” Bankole said. “We have to walk hand in hand.”
Toyin Menu
45D Central St, Providence, RI 02907
(401) 300-1960
Deddeh’s Menu
418 Pine St, Providence, RI 02903
(401) 457-5016
Suya Joint PVD Menu
320 Westminster St, Providence, RI 02903
(401) 217-2994
Emily Bruck is a writer and storyteller currently based in Charlestown, RI, and originally from Massachusetts. A recent Syracuse University graduate, she enjoys covering internet culture, lifestyle topics, the arts, and human interest stories. She currently freelances and shares more of her work at emilybruck.com.
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