As someone who’s been a vegetarian for decades, I’ve had my fair share of plant-based meals, some okay, some very good even. But every so often, a restaurant reminds me that vegetables can absolutely steal the show.
That’s what happened at PiANTA, a vegan restaurant in Providence’s Federal Hill, where chef and owner Michelle Politano brings real joy and confidence to plant-based cooking.
We started with the Turkey Eggroll, which felt like what I imagined Thanksgiving to be all wrapped up in a crispy shell—chickpea “turkey,” mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce, served with a side of gravy for dipping, of course. It was full of flavor and honestly the closest thing to a full Thanksgiving meal I’ve ever enjoyed in the form of an appetizer. For those seeking more, there’s even a Thanksgiving Sandwich that includes stuffing, garlic bread and cornbread.
Next came Crispy Smashed Potatoes—golden, perfectly crisp, and smothered in lemon garlic aioli. They were impossible to stop eating, and we didn’t try too hard.
For my main, I had the Za’atar Zucchini Steak, served with quinoa, tabbouleh, house-made ricotta, toasted breadcrumbs, and a drizzle of harissa honey. The flavors were layered and generous—savory, aromatic, and just enough heat to wake up the palate without overwhelming it.
My husband, who’s the meat eater in our household, went for the Birria Quesadilla. Traditionally, birria is a slow-cooked Mexican stew, and here it’s reimagined with oyster mushrooms. The quesadilla arrived golden and inviting, with pico de gallo, a bright citrus crema, and a consommé for dipping. He loved it.
And because I have an unshakable weakness for cannolis, we finished with the Cannoli Dip. Picture a deconstructed cannoli—cinnamon sugar chips, fresh strawberries, and a luscious filling that hit all the right notes. I was in cannoli heaven.
Chef Michelle’s food feels both comforting and creative, guided by an intuitive sense of flavor and texture. She coaxes the best out of vegetables—not to imitate meat, but to celebrate everything plants can be.
PiANTA isn’t just a good vegan restaurant. It’s a good restaurant, period.
Margaret Rizzuto is a photographer with over 15 years experience capturing the beauty of food and people. As a Brooklyn-born Italian, her love of food runs deep. Margaret relocated to Providence in 2020 and quickly fell in love with the city—especially its vibrant food scene and welcoming people. www.margaretrizzuto.com @aprovidencepalatte
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